ヴェネツィアでは宮殿(ドゥカーレ宮殿)と大聖堂(サン・マルコ寺院)が並んで建っています。宮殿はぱっと見シンプル。それに比べて大聖堂は凝った装飾が施されています。
In Venice, The Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale) and Saint Mark's basilica (Basilica di San Marco) stand next to each other. The palace looked simple at first glance compared to the Basilica, which was rather elaborate.
度肝を抜かれたのは最も高価なお宝「パラ・ドーロ」という祭壇画です。ルビー、真珠、サファイアなど、約2000個の宝石で埋め尽くされた黄金の衝立。ナポレオンがいくつかの貴重な宝石を盗んだそうですが、それでもなお目も眩むばかりの宝石の数々。一体どれだけの財力を誇っていたのでしょうか。それを宗教のためにささげたというのも興味深いです。大聖堂内は上を見上げれば金色に輝く宗教画のモザイク、足下を見ると歩道も美しいモザイクに覆われていて、ため息がでるばかりでした。内部は撮影禁止で手荷物は預けなければならないんですが、預かりは1時間以内と言われました。でもそこは1時間では見たりないほどのお宝に埋め尽くされていました。
I was staggered to see the Pala d'Oro, - the most valuable treasure in the Basilica. It is a golden altarpiece bedecked with about 2000 jewels such as rubies, pearls or sapphires. Napoleon stole some of precious stones but the screen still gleams. I cannot imagine how rich the nation was and how the people dedicated the fortune to Christianity. Above our heads golden religious mosaics were shining on the ceiling and also below our feet beautiful mosaics covered the floor. These superb things drew sighs of admiration.
One was not allowed to take photos inside and hand luggage had to be left at a cloakroom. We were told that we should re-collect our luggage within one hour. However, there were so many treasures, it was impossible to see them all in one hour.
宮殿はヴェネツィア共和国の総督の公邸。一周歩くだけで1時間かかるので、もちろん時間制限はないです(笑)。ゴシック調の白い建物は遠目からはシンプルに見えますが、詳細をみるとまがいもなく豪華一色。内部には素晴らしい絵画に飾られている部屋がたくさんあって、なかでもベネチア共和国の評議会所として使用していた巨大なホールにはこれまだ度肝を抜かれました。25歳以上の貴族出身男性は全員出席する権利が与えられ(※ただし平民と結婚した場合を除く。)、16世紀半ばには約2000人ものメンバーいたとか。部屋の正面には世界で最も大きな絵画の一つ、ティントレットの「天国」が飾られています。心を奪われて会議に集中できなさそうです。
宮殿には牢獄が併設(!)されており、そこにつながる通路は「ため息の橋」と呼ばれています。この橋を渡る囚人が人生最後の美しいヴェネツィアの景色を見ながらため息をついたとか。
The Doge's palace is the official residence of each Venetian ruler, - the "Doge". It takes a minimum of one hour to walk around and there is no time limit. From a distance, the white Gothic building looked rather simple especially next to the basilica, but closer inspection showed its undoubtedly luxurious nature. Inside, there were many lavish rooms decorated with splendid pictures. Above all, the vast hall which was used as a meeting place for members of Venice's Great Council made me speechless. By the mid-16th century there were around 2000 members of the Great Council. Any Venetian of high birth, aged over 25, was entitled to a seat unless he married a commoner. "Paradise", by Tintoretto, one of the world's largest paintings was displayed on the front wall. I wonder how they could concentrate on the meetings in that huge grand hall.
The prison was placed next to the palace. There was a passage way that linked both buildings, which is called the Bridge of Sighs "Ponte dei Sospiri,". The view from the bridge was the last view of Venice for convicts before their imprisonment. It is said that they let out a sigh as they saw beautiful Venice for the last time.
ヴェネツィアはガラス工芸も有名。15世紀にはヨーロッパにおける高級ガラス市場を独占し、王侯貴族の間でこのうつくしいガラス工芸は大流行したそうです。政府はガラス職人をムラーノ島に幽閉してガラス製作をさせ、技術の流失を防いだとか。きらびやかな装飾が施されたガラス。貴族に愛されたのも分かる気がします。
金どころかガラスの材料も自給できない水の都ですが、貿易によって黄金の王国となったヴェネツィア。湯水のようにお金をつぎ込むことができたこのヴェネツィアの黄金時代を垣間見て、感嘆のため息をつき通しの一日でした。
Venice is famous for its glass art. In 15th century Venetians monopolized the market for high-class glass in Europe and the beautiful glass work was in fashion among aristocrats. It is said that the government confined the craftsmen and their families to Murano island to keep their techniques secret. There is no doubt that the gorgeous ornamental Venetian glass must have satisfied the nobles.
Venice, couldn't possibly produce its own gold and glass raw materials; however it became a wealthy nation with the aid of sea-borne trade, finally being able to spend money like the water on which it was built. I caught a glimpse of the golden age of Venice and sighed in admiration.